The big attraction in Malawi is its lake, a huge body of fresh water in the middle of Africa which accounts for a significant proportion of Malawi’s territory. Since transport links to the northern section are not easy, we opted to visit Cape McLear at the southern end of the lake. There was much conflicting advice about how to get there, how long it would take and what condition the roads would be in. Eventually, we hired a driver to take us there from Lilongwe. It proved to be an easy four hour drive over roads which were generally excellent - probably the best we have encountered so far in Africa, except for a final 20 km stretch into Cape McLear.
Cape McLear is a settlement comprising a Malawi village of about 15,000 people and a sprinkling of guest houses and hotels. The lake is central to the lives of the local Malawi people - they make their living from fishing in it - and use it for washing, cleaning and bathing. They also try to sell handicrafts to passing tourists and, with tourist traffic at a low ebb, we found ourselves a very frequent target as we explored the village and lakeshore. The lakeshore itself is very nice - the coarse gold sand and green water was a contrast to the white and turquoise of the Indian Ocean we had just experienced in Zanzibar.
We stayed overnight in Cape McLear and next day headed to the small island resort of Mumbo. It is located in the lake about 10 km north of the Cape. We paddled there by kayak in about 2 hours. It is a spectacular place, essentially a private island with accommodation for only 14 people in tented chalets, a small beach and central dining area. All meals provided. No electricity, running hot water or flush toilets on the island but all sorts of ingenious ways to compensate for them. Each chalet was an architectural and engineering work of art, built into the cliffs with panoramic sea views. A separate adjoining bathroom, also with a great view and eco-friendly plumbing, running potable water and a bucket shower which relied on solar heated water. We were very impressed.
Aside from the accommodation, the island boasts several hiking trails (which we covered on our first day there), and many rocky coves ideal for snorkeling. No sounds except the gentle waves of the lake and the calls of the birds. It was a small paradise and we rounded out our first day there by going in a boat for the short trip to the other side of the island to watch the sunset.
Rain struck during the night. In fact, it seems that storm activity is a feature of the lake, at least at this time of year. It was still raining when we woke up and the rain persisted for most of the day. We were “forced” to relax and do nothing until late afternoon when the weather cleared enough for us to kayak around the island’s rocky coves and try some snorkeling. The water was warm and clear and we thought it was a beautiful place. Our opinions did not change despite more rain during the next night. For this night, we were in a different chalet which was a little more removed from the water. Very isolated - it seemed like we were in the middle of the jungle.
After a rainy start, we were able to enjoy our last day at Mumbo in the sun on the beach before the two hour paddle back to Cape McLear. Mumbo had been a memorable experience for us.
Cape McLear is a settlement comprising a Malawi village of about 15,000 people and a sprinkling of guest houses and hotels. The lake is central to the lives of the local Malawi people - they make their living from fishing in it - and use it for washing, cleaning and bathing. They also try to sell handicrafts to passing tourists and, with tourist traffic at a low ebb, we found ourselves a very frequent target as we explored the village and lakeshore. The lakeshore itself is very nice - the coarse gold sand and green water was a contrast to the white and turquoise of the Indian Ocean we had just experienced in Zanzibar.
We stayed overnight in Cape McLear and next day headed to the small island resort of Mumbo. It is located in the lake about 10 km north of the Cape. We paddled there by kayak in about 2 hours. It is a spectacular place, essentially a private island with accommodation for only 14 people in tented chalets, a small beach and central dining area. All meals provided. No electricity, running hot water or flush toilets on the island but all sorts of ingenious ways to compensate for them. Each chalet was an architectural and engineering work of art, built into the cliffs with panoramic sea views. A separate adjoining bathroom, also with a great view and eco-friendly plumbing, running potable water and a bucket shower which relied on solar heated water. We were very impressed.
Aside from the accommodation, the island boasts several hiking trails (which we covered on our first day there), and many rocky coves ideal for snorkeling. No sounds except the gentle waves of the lake and the calls of the birds. It was a small paradise and we rounded out our first day there by going in a boat for the short trip to the other side of the island to watch the sunset.
Rain struck during the night. In fact, it seems that storm activity is a feature of the lake, at least at this time of year. It was still raining when we woke up and the rain persisted for most of the day. We were “forced” to relax and do nothing until late afternoon when the weather cleared enough for us to kayak around the island’s rocky coves and try some snorkeling. The water was warm and clear and we thought it was a beautiful place. Our opinions did not change despite more rain during the next night. For this night, we were in a different chalet which was a little more removed from the water. Very isolated - it seemed like we were in the middle of the jungle.
After a rainy start, we were able to enjoy our last day at Mumbo in the sun on the beach before the two hour paddle back to Cape McLear. Mumbo had been a memorable experience for us.
Pictures show view of and from our hut in Mumbo.
Simon
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