After a Christmas Day recovering from the celebrations of Christmas Eve, including a leisurely climb up San Bernardo for a panoramic view of Salta, we hit the road to enjoy some of the regional highlights. In what proved to be an inspired move, we used a 4WD belonging to Mercedes's brother, Matthias, as our mode of transportation. Our guide was Mercedes's other brother, Alejo.
We took the scenic but very winding route out of Salta towards Jujuy before branching off in the direction of the salt lakes which were to be our first destination. The road climbed higher and higher until we were above 4,000 metres. Almost as high as New Zealand's highest mountain. No ill-effects except for popping ears - we had been forearmed with coca leaves and dietary advice. After a short descent we reached the salt lakes. At first they looked like normal water but, as we got closer, the blinding whiteness emphasized that these were no normal lakes. We drove on to the salt surface. Concerns that the surface might not support the truck were unfounded. A short walk in "safe" area provided insights into how the salt is collected, as well as an opportunity for an extra fast suntan.
We headed back over the mountain pass and then further north to Humahuaca. The road passes through steep gorges with rocks of many colours - in fact, the colours are so spectacular that they are a designated World Heritage site. Reds, greens and yellows supplemented the more common browns and greys. All looked even sharper against the (mostly) blue sky. Beyond Humahuaca, we started on a rough dirt road towards Iruya, our final destination for the day. The road takes a winding course for 50 km, including portions on dry (and not so dry) river bedes. Just as well we had a 4WD. Our journey was just a little longer as we took a detour to test the navigation system. It was dark by the time we rolled in to Iruya.
The town is situated at the junction of two rivers and clutches the side of a mountain, dwarfed on all sides by towering rock formations. Difficult not to feel claustraphobic. But the local Andean people seem to take it all in their stride. And they have to do lots of striding since the streets are steep. For those non-locals like us, the reduced oxygen at this altitude made getting around even more of a challenge.
It was only the next morning that daylight revealed the beauty of Iruya. Traditional mud brick houses in narrow streets. Clothing and flags adorned with bright colours. Andean music melding with more popular soundtracks. We walked around the town and, after feeling that we had got our physical exercise for the day, we were back in the truck and on our way out. A short stop to pull another vehicle out of the river (again a reminder that the road is not to be taken for granted) and then on to Tilcara where we viewed a regional museum and a pucara - an Indian fortified village which had been carefully restored. Back in Salta early in the evening.
Simon
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