Back in Argentina, we were keen to continue our exploration of Patagonia. We took a bus to El Chalten, a small town about 250 km from El Calafate and the gateway to the northern section of Parque Nacionale de los Glaciares. It was a bright sunny afternoon and, as we approached El Chalten, the mountain ranges behind it looked like a postcard scene. The centerpiece is a mountain called Fitz Roy - only 3,400 meters above sea level but dominating the landscape since everything else around the range is so flat.
El Chalten is an attractive town. It is a little raw, a mere 25 years old and in many ways work-in-progress, but the buildings are modern and tasteful and there are patisseries and coffee shops at every turn. Somehow the town retains its quiet charm despite the huge influx of trekkers, backpackers and more serious climbers.
We spent the first evening (daylight lasts until well after 10 pm) and the next three days exploring the trails around El Chalten. The first day took us high up for a panoramic view of both Fitz Roy and the neighboring Cerro Torre range. It was a long climb up through grassland, beech forest and scree with more than 1,000 meters of elevation. But the views of the ranges and their glaciers were very rewarding, even if Fitz Roy itself was partly obscured by cloud. We could have marveled at them for a long time, but an icy wind soon encouraged us to make the descent. Even after hiking for 7 hours, we still had energy to use the evening light to tackle another shorter trail to a nearby waterfall.
The second day we took a less elevated trek to Laguna Torre, a small lake at the foot of Cerro Torre with Glaciar Grande as its backdrop. It was another sunny day, although clouds maintained a strangle-hold on the highest peaks, and most of our route was sheltered from the wind - at least until we reached the lake itself. It was pleasant hiking, but still a long day, and we built big appetites for the barbecue meal in the evening. Patagonian lamb was on the menu and it was good.
Our last day on the trail was grey and overcast. It was always threatening to rain but it never actually did. It certainly blew. The trail we chose took us to the base of Fitz Roy for close-up views. Unfortunately, Fitz Roy and the weather were not co-operating and the peaks remained hidden from view despite our efforts to find a good vantage point. But never mind. Mountain weather is fickle and we were lucky to see as much as we did in our three days around El Chalten. We left the town very happy to have spent time there.
Simon
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